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IS THE STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIER THE DOG FOR YOU?
The following information has been gleaned from reading many books, talking and exchanging ideas and information with breed mentors, friends and from our own experience. It is offered with the best of intentions but we cannot accept any responsibility for its application. Staffordshire Bull Terriers are one of the most loving breeds you will ever own. They are not for everyone. If you have an extremely busy life style, rarely at home and want a dog left outside, this is certainly not the breed for you. It is imperative that your Stafford is a part of your family. They feel the cold, they feel the heat and are most insulted when left alone. A bored and lonely Stafford can be quite destructive. This is a breed that craves human company and will be a loyal and loving companion for their life span. Staffords thrive in a busy household. They will peel the veggies with you, sit on your feet while your on the toilet, watch TV, read books with the kids, jog around a park, swim at the beach, you name - they'll do it. If you are doing it they will want to do it with you.
STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIERS AND CHILDREN
Whilst this breed is sensational with children, when they are puppies, they are not to be left alone unsupervised together. This is like leaving a two year old child to babysit another two year old child. It can be rather tedious and repetitive making sure your Stafford puppy is safe from having a toddler stick a pen down its ear or on the other hand, having the pup chewing toys, pinching food or pulling you child clothes.. Even the most experienced dog owner can be pushed to their limits when juggling toddlers and puppies. Once you get through the first twelve months of setting up boundaries for your children and your dog, you won’t look back. We owned Staffords for six years before we had our children and there were quite a few adjustments to be made by all. We eventually got through this and now our children and dogs are the best of friends. Both our children learnt to walk off the dogs back and not once have I seen any of our dogs (two at our house, two at my parent’s) be anything but loving and tolerant to all children.
Staffordshire Bull Terriers had a somewhat “shady” and cruel history. Part of their resumes include pit fighting, ratting and bull/bear/badger baiting. In England it was illegal for many years to slaughter beef without “baiting” it first. It was believed that the beef tasted “better” if the beast was enraged when slaughtered due to the blood rushing through its veins. As a consequence there were many types of bull and terriers that were used for this job. A “good” fighting dog was always prized amongst the blue collar workers (miners, chain makers etc) and the Stafford was always well cared for and lived with the families in their cottages. In a nutshell the Staffordshire Bull Terrier has always been reliable and loving towards people but can be dog aggressive if not properly socialised. It is imperative that your Stafford puppy is sociable with all animal and situations. Whilst we honour their past we must respect their future and an aggressive Stafford is not acceptable in today's society. They are numerous Obedience Clubs all around Australia which offer socialising classes as well as many Veterinarian Clinics. The SBTCV also hold Members Competitions and Gymkhanas which are another ideal way to socialize your puppy.
Bolerow Miss Money Penny (Penny) and Ch Linwest Thunderstruck (Phantom) had a great time early October. Red puppies due 10th December. Owner Rachel Barber.
The Forge family, Blossom and Linwest Jack Sparrow (Duke) are proud to announce the arrival of six lovely black brindle and brindle puppies. Four girls, two boys. Ready to go to their new homes 2nd week November 2009.
Ch: Satiety Horace Whitesox (Good Ol Buster boy) and Ch Linwest Midnight Angel (Angel) after much ado had a red boy aka The Bean (AI) on the 7th August 2009.
Kirra and Ch Linwest Thunderstruck (Phantom) are thrilled with the arrival of six beautiful babies: two girl, four boys. Red with with marking, black with white markings, white with red and white with black. First time breeders and owners Leanne and Jason Millhouse - well done guys!! Babies born 16th October 2009, ready to go approx 16th December.
DESEXING
(This article on desexing has been provided by Moorabbin Veterinary Hospital 328 South Road Moorabbin 3189 Australia : phone (03) 95554808 email: mvh@moorabbinvet.com.au)
Desexing your dog — commonly asked questions.
What is desexing?
Surgical desexing is a commonly performed procedure to remove the reproductive organs from either a male or female dog. The surgery is often called a “spey”(or spay) in a female, which involves a full ovariohysterectomy, or “castration” in a male dog which is removal of both testicles It is a very routine surgery carned out daily at most veterinary clinics It involves a general anaesthetic however is usually only a day procedure
What age should I have my dog desexed?
Most vets recommend desexing dogs around the time of puberty which on average is about 6 months of age, although the operation can be carried out any time. Getting your pup neutered around 6 months allows the surgery to be performed before the bitch’s first season and before the males develop their mature sexual characteristics. The surgery is also less involved when the reproductive tract is immature making the recovery in your dog quicker. Some welfare centers and breeders opt to have this operation performed at a much younger age so they are desexed at time of rehoming.
Why should I have my male dog desexed?
There are many advantages to castrating a male dog including behavioural and medical reasons. Desexing a male dog improves many aspects of behaviour including fewer problems with aggression (particularly between other male dogs), decreased incidence of leg lifting and marking behaviour and usually leads to a more easily trainable dog. Because of this all service dogs, Guide Dogs, Hearing Dogs and Dogs for Disabled are routinely desexed. Your dog is less likely to wander or run away seeking female dogs in heat, hence reduce the number of mismatings and unwanted pregnancies which often result in dumped puppies.
There are also several important medical problems that can be prevented by desexing, including almost all prostate problems, testicular cancers, perineal hernias and perianal adenomas (small tumours that occur around the anal area in entire male dogs).
Why should I have my female dog desexed?
Desexing a female dog prevents oestrus (heat or season) as well as her ability to breed, hence once desexed she will no longer need to be confined for up to three weeks every time she comes into heat (every 6 months) to prevent unwanted pregnancies, and there will no longer be the mess of bleeding to deal with.
Owners often believe that having a litter from a bitch will improve her temperament. There is no scientific evidence to support this theory whereas it has been proven that neutering in the bitch prevents the incidence of uterine infections (pyometra) and ovarianluterine cancers. In addition the incidence of mammary tumours (breast cancer) is almost non existent when female dogs are speyed prior to the first heat, and increases in incidence every heat thereafter. Such problems not only endanger your dog’s health, but also mean involved and often expensive surgeries may be required.
Council registration
In both male and female dogs there are also significant discounts with council registration when neutered.
Disadvantages of neutering
It is a common fallacy that desexed dogs will become fat and lazy. Judicious feeding of a scientifically prepared complete diet without excessive tidbits and regular exercise will adequately control the problems of obesity just as it does in the entire animal.
Rarely desexed female dogs acquire urinary incontinence due to a lack of female hormones — this can be treated with a variety of medications if this becomes a problem.
Thus there are many advantages and few disadvantages to having your dog desexed. As long as you are not planning on breeding, for the health and welfare of your pet, we highly recommend desexing your pet. Your local veterinarian will also be happy to discuss any issues regarding the desexing of your pet.
The following obedience information has been provided by Penny Harrison. Glenn and I really appreciate Penny taking the time to prepare the article and we hope you find the information useful. Whilst on the obedience track, we would also like to thank Carol Kilby for flying the obedience flag for us with Linwest Hesa Bobby ET - Bobby. I believe once Bobby gets Carol a little more organised he will be our first Linwest Obedience Champion.
Why should you do obedience with your Stafford? The question really should be ‘Why not!?’ Staffords are not only great at obedience - they also love it! Not only do they learn something to keep their minds active (and out of mischief!) but they get to spend quality time with their idol (namely yourself!). Staffords are generally an easy dog to train. Their willing to please attitude and natural enthusiasm for their owner make them an absolute pleasure to train and they just positively flourish! In addition to enjoying training, an obedience trained dog is a pleasure to live with. When you first bring your Stafford home, chances are, nobody has yet taught him ‘The Rules’. Nobody has taught him what is and what is not acceptable behaviour. A dog that hasn't been given any instructions, training or boundaries can't possibly know what you expect of him. By teaching your dog how you want him to behave, you'll not only have a saner household, but a happier dog as well.
A few basic exercises to get you started.
Sit.
The Sit is very easy to teach and often the first thing that is learnt. To start, be standing with your dog with a hand full of treats. Next – whilst telling the dog in a firm voice ‘Sit’ hold a treat directly over your dogs head. The laws of physics work in such a way that when your dog has to look up over his head, the backside will go down. Once your dog is sitting, give him the treat and tell him what a fabulous dog he is!
Drop
You can start teaching this in the sit position, although once your dog has the hang of this, its best to phase that out and do it from a standing position. Let your dog know you have a treat in your hand and take the treat from his nose to the ground. Make sure you take it slightly forward to give him room to drop. When you see him starting to drop – incorporate the command “Drop’ in a firm voice. This might take a few goes, but don’t give up! The idea is to withhold the treat until he does the exercise. Once he works out that he must drop to receive the treat – the drop is your oyster!
Stay
Put your dog into a sit or a drop on your left hand side. Then tell him to ‘stay’ and step directly in front of him. Once he’s stayed for a few seconds – reward him with a treat. Over time, slowly build up the time which you make him stay and well as increasing the distance between him and yourself. Each time he is successful make sure you reward him! Once you have him rock solid, to finish the exercise, walk around behind the dog (anti clockwise) and back so he is on your left hand side to finish.
Recall
First of all, you must remember what NOT to do. If ever you need to tell your dog off, do not call him to you then tell him off. If so, you’ve just told him off for coming to you! Now, start with your dog on a stay around a metre in front of you. Then tell the dog “Fido…Come!”. Hold some treats around waist height directly in front of you. The aim here is to get him to come and sit in front of you. Once he comes in – tell him to ‘sit’. Once he has come and sat – treats and praise!
Watch
This one is good for getting your dogs attention – whether you need to distract him from an oncoming dog, or to begin training! Sit on your couch with a handful of treats. Now your dog will try to nudge your hand to get to them – that’s fine – just hide your hand if need be. Watch your dog carefully. No doubt he will be intently watching where the food has gone. The instant your dog looks up at you to make eye contact – feed him a treat. Carry on like this – treating every time eye contact is established. When eye contact is made – tell your dog “watch” – then feed. Do this over a few nights, gradually building up the amount of time which eye contact his held before feeding. Within a few days you should find that when you say “watch” your dog will look up at you!
TOILET TRAINING - EIGHT WEEKS ONWARDS.
Quote " Every time my puppy used to wee on the
floor I rubbed his nose in it and threw him out of the window.
He is now trained: Every time he wees on the floor he sniffs it
and jumps out of the window:" Unquote.
On a serious note. Puppies will wee as soon as they wake up. They take approx six to ten steps then squat. If you see you puppy rousing from sleep, pick him up, walk him down the back yard and he will do what comes naturally. A puppy will generally poo a couple of minutes after eating. So once again, feed him, then take him out the back and just walk around with him until he goes. EVERY time you see you pup going to the toilet outside, give him tonnes of praise. If you catch your puppy going to the toilet inside and only if you see him do it in front of you, scold him, then take him out the back again. This is a very repetitive time with your puppy. Consistency is very important. When you wake up first thing in the morning, take your pup straight out. If you get the porridge ready, got the toilet yourself, you have already missed the opportunity. Alternatively, if you hear your puppy waking, get him outside as quick as possible. It is amazing how quickly they can be toilet trained. When the puppy is very little, some people have to leave their pup inside. If you leave the pup to run amok in the whole house, there will be mess everywhere when you get home. It is ideal if they can have a partitioned off area, ie kitchen or laundry. Then you are able to have a warm dry bed for them, some toys and approx one square metre of paper for them to go to the toilet on (it is assumed the breeder will have the pup trained to paper). Over time reduce the size of the papered area down to one sheet. If you happen to find a mess in the house, it is NO USE scolding your puppy (it only makes you feel better!!). They will have no idea what has got into you. People say "oh they knew they'd done something wrong". All the pup can sense is your tone of voice, the bad "vibe" and the expression on your face. Once again, if you SEE them do it, just say NO!!! in a firm voice and take them outside. Good Luck!!